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Life's Mixed Bag
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mouse



Joined: 10 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ennis wrote:
I'm actually learning how to sew so I can give the middle finger to all the clothing retailers who don't stock my size (and those that kinda do but are expensive). Today I'm making a waistcoat from a pattern I created from a waistcoat I had custom made for me when I was in the Philippines. I'm learning a lot as I go (mainly that pockets are devils to make). Maybe soon I can step up into making things that have sleeves. Setting sleeves seem hard. But yeah, I hope to one day look at, say, a jacket style that I like (which naturally would not come in my size) and go "psh, I can make that", draw up a pattern then create a perfectly fitting garment.

DeD CHiKn, why don't you take a shirt that fits around the shoulders to the tailors to get it taken in? Or if you have a friend that sews, ply them with their favourite beverage and ask them?


good for you! when i was younger, most all of my clothes were sewn by either my mom or me...just when i got older and lazier (or when i tried to buy the stuff everyone else was wearing) that i ran into problems. i actually bought a new sewing machine a couple of years ago, i should start using it more regularly.

on sleeves, 2 tips: 1: put in a line of basting around the top curve of the sleeve. this will let you gently gather it up.
2: pin starting from the top and keep adjusting as you go. and then double-check that you haven't pinned in a fold somewhere that will require you to rip it all out and start all over again which has never ever happened to me ever.
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Samsally



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stripeypants wrote:
Samsally wrote:
There is a limit to just how tall and skinny, though. I have the hardest time finding pants that aren't four inches too short.


A very tall and average weight friend of mine was convinced she was fat because she she for some reason didn't realize her clothes were made for a shorter, smaller people. It made me sad because she felt bad about it, and angry because she kept fat talking about herself so much that it contributed to body image issues for me.


Sizing is such bullshit. It's bullshit is different between genders, but still totally bullshit all around. Like, no surprise she was wearing ill fitting clothes to begin with because none of the clothing numbers for women's wear match up. A small in one size could be as big as a large, or maybe it's a 4, or possibly a 10. Soooo muuuuch bullshit. It's no consolation that it gives a lot of people problems, but damn, it gives a lot of people problems.

mouse wrote:
on sleeves, 2 tips: 1: put in a line of basting around the top curve of the sleeve. this will let you gently gather it up.
2: pin starting from the top and keep adjusting as you go. and then double-check that you haven't pinned in a fold somewhere that will require you to rip it all out and start all over again which has never ever happened to me ever.


These are good tips!

But no for serious if you make it through a project without having to seam rip and start part of it over again at -least- once you are either lying or a wizard. This is true facts brought to you by someone with a degree in costuming.
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mouse



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i put on my wizard hat and robe (all made without ANY MISTAKES)...

i don't so much mind having to rip something out. it's having to rip something out multiple times when i keep making the same damn mistake....
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Samsally



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sleeves are really good for that.

Not that you'd know, your wizardliness.
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DeD CHiKn



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samsally wrote:


Sizing is such bullshit. It's bullshit is different between genders, but still totally bullshit all around. Like, no surprise she was wearing ill fitting clothes to begin with because none of the clothing numbers for women's wear match up. A small in one size could be as big as a large, or maybe it's a 4, or possibly a 10. Soooo muuuuch bullshit. It's no consolation that it gives a lot of people problems, but damn, it gives a lot of people problems.


Even men suffer from size scaling.



You'd think you should be able to measure you, go to the store and grab pants that size. Nope. At least we don't have to deal with however they get girls size numbers.
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Samsally



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Random hat draw, I'm pretty sure.
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Samsally



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So weird, so apparently if I post from my phone it always double posts. Ugh.
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Ennis



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samsally wrote:
mouse wrote:
on sleeves, 2 tips: 1: put in a line of basting around the top curve of the sleeve. this will let you gently gather it up.
2: pin starting from the top and keep adjusting as you go. and then double-check that you haven't pinned in a fold somewhere that will require you to rip it all out and start all over again which has never ever happened to me ever.


These are good tips!

But no for serious if you make it through a project without having to seam rip and start part of it over again at -least- once you are either lying or a wizard. This is true facts brought to you by someone with a degree in costuming.

Haha, I have had to unpick quite a lot. There's bits and pieces of thread everywhere around the sewing machine.

Mouse, this is going to seem like a stupid question, but how does that work? How does fitting a length of fabric into a smaller length not result in folds? Awhile ago mum and I attempted to make a jacket with a method a bit like you describe and it was an unmitigated disaster. It just doesn't make sense to me that you can fit a larger hole into a smaller hole without some kind of sorcery to stop it from bunching or folding.
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Yinello



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

- Client calls to complain to my colleague about something I apparantly promised (never did)
+ Client proceeds to complain so much my colleague hangs up saying 'my god, what a horrible person' to me
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Samsally



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ennis wrote:
Haha, I have had to unpick quite a lot. There's bits and pieces of thread everywhere around the sewing machine.

Fun trick if you're using a sewing machine, if the fabric you're using is sturdy enough (and a lot of them are) you can pick the very edge (where you most likely did the little 'go backward a ways, then forward' technique) than just give it a good tug and 'rip' the two pieces apart. I mean, maybe try this with some junky fabric a few times because you eventually learn to feel when the fabric will give over the seam, but oh god it has saved me sooo much time. Obviously this only works if you're seam was done with one line of sewing, if you're doubling up anywhere you're stuck picking the whole mess and it's usually slow and terrible.

Ennis wrote:
Mouse, this is going to seem like a stupid question, but how does that work? How does fitting a length of fabric into a smaller length not result in folds? Awhile ago mum and I attempted to make a jacket with a method a bit like you describe and it was an unmitigated disaster. It just doesn't make sense to me that you can fit a larger hole into a smaller hole without some kind of sorcery to stop it from bunching or folding.

I know you asked Mouse but let me word vomit at you anyway.

The technique is called 'easing' I think and it's basically like "gathering light". You are, essentially, mushing the fabric fibers together very carefully in a way that doesn't cause the bunching to become visible. I'm not sure how much you've sewn at this point, but if you've ever tried to sew knits or things cut on the bias you'll find that just because you've mashed the same lengths of fabric together and thrown 'em through a machine doesn't really mean they're gunna come out sewn together evenly (oh the Leia dress, teaching me early on that sewing knits is so unpleasant but the results are so cool). Fabric is delightful like that, it has a mind of its own and half your job is forcing it to do your bidding. When you're easing something in for an arm hole or whatever, you're basically using that quality of the fabric to your advantage.

Some fabrics are WAY easier to ease than others, I'm not sure what all goes into it but generally speaking every fabric has the capability it's just that some will make you want to set them on fire more than others.

Even more tips for easing: Using one line of basting like mouse mentioned is super handy and usually how I ease, however, if the fabric is being particularly hateful OR I know I have a huge amount of fabric to ease I will actually do two lines of basting in the seam, it will 'bunch' the fabric up a lot more evenly and give you an easier time smishing it through the machine without gathers showing.

If the amount you need to ease -isn't- too excessive, a lot of people find putting the 'long' side of fabric towards the presserfoot helps with easing (really this works best at making even gathers, too, but easing sometimes). The theory is that the presserfoot is what's tugging the fabric through the machine, so it goes moderately faster than the top layer (the one facing the needle). Honestly this technique can be sometimes useful but it's counter weighed by the fact that you can't see the gathers/ease as your going through... soo, it's a give or take kind of thing. I usually don't like this technique personally, but a lot of people swear by it so I dunno, throwing it out there I guess.

I FEEL LIKE I HAVE MORE TO SAY OMG. Apparently I have lot of opinions about sewing.
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Samsally



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOPE APPARENTLY I CAN'T STOP SEND HELP.

Another thing with sleeves in particular that has actually helped me a lot, is that a lot of times the actual line on the sleeve and the line on the arm hole is about the same length, the difference is that one has a bunch of extra fabric inside the seam and the other doesn't have as much (due to one line being convex and one being concave, eh?)

Oh fuckit, let me draw you a picture.



So the red line is actually really close to being the same length on both the sleeve and the sleeve cap. It's just the orange section is going to consist of less fabric than the purple section, so part of easing the fabric in is convincing it that the purple section needs to smish in evenly all around so that you can line up the red line properly.

Now of course every single pattern is going to be different and some do force you to make one slightly longer red line fit evenly with another red line, but for some reason convincing myself they're about the same length has helped immeasurably over the years whether it's true or not. (It's usually true though, I promise, unless your goal is to create actual gathers, then it is blatantly untrue but that's a whole 'nother technique.)
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mouse



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think samsally pretty much has it covered (and she definitely has way more experience) (and can actually draw stuff so you can tell what it is).

i will just add - if you put your line of basting pretty much right on the seam line, and then gather the stitches by pulling on one of the threads, you will see that the total length of fabric sorta comes together in little ruffles, rather than folds (this may be another thing you have to see in person). then you do your final stitching right over that (which can, admittedly, make removing the basting a pain, but eh). but anyway, that way you are stitching directly at the point of gathering - and somehow it works.

another thing i do is sort of portion out the area before i really start gathering. so i locate the center-top of the sleeve (and make sure that the body shoulder seam is also at the center - sometimes that seam is offset forward). i pin the two center tops together, then i pin the end bits together, along with whatever bit at the bottom doesn't need to be gathered. then i divide the long area that is left on each side in half (both body and sleeve), and pin there, and so on as necessary - so the gathering is evenly spread out along the sleeve. when i started doing that, i found i often didn't need to gather very much at all - i could sorta ease the fabric together (obviously this only works if the sleeve is more or less smooth where it attaches - so not a puffy-shirt technique).
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Samsally



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oooh lots of good points, mouse. A lot of patterns will give you markers to show where you should and shouldn't ease for shoulders and things, mostly because nobody wants a bunch of fabric bunching up under their armpits.

I'm a huge fan of really old patterns that are suuuper specific about where to put ease, since like, you want most of it at the -back- of the shoulder because that's where you need the most room to be able to move your arms and shit. Super old patterns are definitely a sort of advanced challenge though, because while they may kindly tell you where exactly the ease needs to go they're all written like they just assume you've been sewing since you were 6 and know literally all of the basics and a few of the not-so-basics. So if it's a super fancy suite collar that needs to be sewn in a very specific order and then flipped a certain way, they just kind of assume you've already done it 8 times already and gloss over the specifics.

Also they're made for TINY people which is how I learned I'd be monstrously tall next to your average 40's person.

...

Look, I really like talking about sewing apparently.
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mouse



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+ we have a really nice rain front in with actually a whole lot of rain predicted which we really really need
+ it's a nice gentle rain which means it will soak in and not just wash everything away
- or it was, until the mechanic called to say my car was ready. now it is pounding down
--it's a five minute walk to the parking lot. out in the open.
---the bill is going to be even higher than i said it was earlier
----and with all the rain, i'm sure i didn't even get my complimentary car wash. THE RAIN DOESN'T CLEAN THE HUBCAPS AND THE SIDES AND the oh why do i bother.

....and i guess i'll find out whether the one fix really solved both the cooling system things.
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Ennis



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samsally wrote:
NOPE APPARENTLY I CAN'T STOP SEND HELP.

Another thing with sleeves in particular that has actually helped me a lot, is that a lot of times the actual line on the sleeve and the line on the arm hole is about the same length, the difference is that one has a bunch of extra fabric inside the seam and the other doesn't have as much (due to one line being convex and one being concave, eh?)

Oh fuckit, let me draw you a picture.



So the red line is actually really close to being the same length on both the sleeve and the sleeve cap. It's just the orange section is going to consist of less fabric than the purple section, so part of easing the fabric in is convincing it that the purple section needs to smish in evenly all around so that you can line up the red line properly.

Now of course every single pattern is going to be different and some do force you to make one slightly longer red line fit evenly with another red line, but for some reason convincing myself they're about the same length has helped immeasurably over the years whether it's true or not. (It's usually true though, I promise, unless your goal is to create actual gathers, then it is blatantly untrue but that's a whole 'nother technique.)


mouse wrote:
i think samsally pretty much has it covered (and she definitely has way more experience) (and can actually draw stuff so you can tell what it is).

i will just add - if you put your line of basting pretty much right on the seam line, and then gather the stitches by pulling on one of the threads, you will see that the total length of fabric sorta comes together in little ruffles, rather than folds (this may be another thing you have to see in person). then you do your final stitching right over that (which can, admittedly, make removing the basting a pain, but eh). but anyway, that way you are stitching directly at the point of gathering - and somehow it works.

another thing i do is sort of portion out the area before i really start gathering. so i locate the center-top of the sleeve (and make sure that the body shoulder seam is also at the center - sometimes that seam is offset forward). i pin the two center tops together, then i pin the end bits together, along with whatever bit at the bottom doesn't need to be gathered. then i divide the long area that is left on each side in half (both body and sleeve), and pin there, and so on as necessary - so the gathering is evenly spread out along the sleeve. when i started doing that, i found i often didn't need to gather very much at all - i could sorta ease the fabric together (obviously this only works if the sleeve is more or less smooth where it attaches - so not a puffy-shirt technique).


Thank you for the pictures and explanations! I think just knowing how it's possible makes me less afraid of trying to set a sleeve at some point haha. After I've finished my waistcoats (yes, plural) I really want to attempt to make this pattern. They actually go down to my size, I won't have to fold it or anything (I think). If that goes well you just won't even be able to stop me, I will make sooo many shirts.

Samsally wrote:
I'm a huge fan of really old patterns that are suuuper specific about where to put ease, since like, you want most of it at the -back- of the shoulder because that's where you need the most room to be able to move your arms and shit. Super old patterns are definitely a sort of advanced challenge though, because while they may kindly tell you where exactly the ease needs to go they're all written like they just assume you've been sewing since you were 6 and know literally all of the basics and a few of the not-so-basics. So if it's a super fancy suite collar that needs to be sewn in a very specific order and then flipped a certain way, they just kind of assume you've already done it 8 times already and gloss over the specifics.

Also they're made for TINY people which is how I learned I'd be monstrously tall next to your average 40's person.

...

Look, I really like talking about sewing apparently.

Where do you get these vintage patterns from? Do they have mens ones too? I would love it if they were also made for tiny people haha.
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